INSTALLING DOORS & DRAWER FRONTS
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INSTALLING DOORSYou are now ready to hang the doors. After carefully unwrapping and inspecting the doors, lay them face down on a protective surface and tap in the dowels for the hinges.
Next you will place the hinge cup into the hole and, using a hand screw driver or a power drill, screw in the two machine screws. If you are using a power drill, be sure to use the clutch feature which will control the amount of torque applied to the screw. It is very important that you do not strip out the screws. |
Before hanging the doors be sure to have all your supplies close at hand as you will be holding the doors with one hand and fastening them with the other. It is always a good idea to test fit a door before you attach it to make sure everything lines up properly. If you are using existing holes in the cabinet frame to attach the doors you can use wooden tooth picks to make sure the hole has the proper amount of tension holding the screw.
Simply push the toothpick into the hole and snap it off flush with the frame. As you can see, it is a good idea to start the screw first by hand so that you don’t end up chasing screws. Do not worry about making door adjustments at this time as that will come later. Repeat the process until all of the doors are hung.
Now you are ready for Drawer fronts.
Simply push the toothpick into the hole and snap it off flush with the frame. As you can see, it is a good idea to start the screw first by hand so that you don’t end up chasing screws. Do not worry about making door adjustments at this time as that will come later. Repeat the process until all of the doors are hung.
Now you are ready for Drawer fronts.
INSTALLING DRAWER FRONTSNow you are ready to attach the drawer fronts. There are many different methods that can be used when attaching Drawer fronts.
The methods you see here are designed around a unique tool we found at Rockler that allows you to test how the drawer lines up with the drawers before you actually use any screws. This tool can be purchased from RefaceSupplies.com as part of our tool kit or it can be ordered separately from Rockler.com. |
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To begin you will first remove the old drawer with front. Next you will want to make sure to measure the current distance from each edge of the drawer front. Be sure to right down the measurements because you won’t be able to go back and measure again once the old front is off.
Removing the old front can be easy like you see here or hard. It all depends on what was used to fasten the old front on. Some are held together with screws, others with staples and yet others with glue. It gets a little more difficult if a combination was used. If you have difficulty removing a front, try to break it loose by carefully using a chisel and hammer. Slowly work your way around the perimeter until the front separates from the box.
Once the old front is removed, place the box back in the hole and attach the Rockler clamps on both sides of the box wall. Place the drawer front into the guide and gently tighten the front clamps. Be sure not to apply too much pressure. Line up the front based on the measurements you wrote down earlier until all of the measurements are exact. Use the adjusters on the sides to lock the front in place. Once all of the measurements match gently close the drawer to see how the drawer lines up. If it looks good, run your screws in from the back side of the drawer box.
Please take note of where you place your screws. Shaker, and raised panel profiles have areas on the face which are thinner. If you run a screw into the grooves you might accidently run a screw through the front surface. There is no fixing a screw hole in a drawer front. The front will have to be re-ordered.
Washers can sometimes be used as spacers if needed. Continue placing the drawer fronts until they have all been placed. Drawer fronts that are not attached to drawer boxes are often referred to as false fronts. If the front is connected with a hinge it is generally referred to as a tip out.
The false front you see here is in front of a sink. This one is being attached using a compression clip. This allows the front to be removed for access to the sink bowl and plumbing connections. However, you intend to secure the front be sure that you double check your measurements before you start drilling holes for screws.
Do not assume that hole openings are perfectly centered to where the front needs to be. Always measure the overall space between fronts. The center of the front should line up with the center of space between the fronts on both sides. Now that you have finished the fronts you are ready for hardware.
Removing the old front can be easy like you see here or hard. It all depends on what was used to fasten the old front on. Some are held together with screws, others with staples and yet others with glue. It gets a little more difficult if a combination was used. If you have difficulty removing a front, try to break it loose by carefully using a chisel and hammer. Slowly work your way around the perimeter until the front separates from the box.
Once the old front is removed, place the box back in the hole and attach the Rockler clamps on both sides of the box wall. Place the drawer front into the guide and gently tighten the front clamps. Be sure not to apply too much pressure. Line up the front based on the measurements you wrote down earlier until all of the measurements are exact. Use the adjusters on the sides to lock the front in place. Once all of the measurements match gently close the drawer to see how the drawer lines up. If it looks good, run your screws in from the back side of the drawer box.
Please take note of where you place your screws. Shaker, and raised panel profiles have areas on the face which are thinner. If you run a screw into the grooves you might accidently run a screw through the front surface. There is no fixing a screw hole in a drawer front. The front will have to be re-ordered.
Washers can sometimes be used as spacers if needed. Continue placing the drawer fronts until they have all been placed. Drawer fronts that are not attached to drawer boxes are often referred to as false fronts. If the front is connected with a hinge it is generally referred to as a tip out.
The false front you see here is in front of a sink. This one is being attached using a compression clip. This allows the front to be removed for access to the sink bowl and plumbing connections. However, you intend to secure the front be sure that you double check your measurements before you start drilling holes for screws.
Do not assume that hole openings are perfectly centered to where the front needs to be. Always measure the overall space between fronts. The center of the front should line up with the center of space between the fronts on both sides. Now that you have finished the fronts you are ready for hardware.